Japan
Spring in Japan: Trips End but the Memories are a Joy Forever
When I was planning our first family trip to Japan in in 2010, I remember stressing out whether we’d end up missing the sakura. Planning a trip to Japan around the cherry blossoms is hard. It is peak tourist season. So, hotel booking must be made in advance. Yet, peak bloom is relatively short. Even small differences in temperatures can throw the calendar off by a couple of days. If you are lucky, you catch the full bloom; otherwise, you miss the magic of the season and get there to witness the blossoms wither and drop to the ground. We had the good fortune to witness the magnificent cherry blossoms the first time in Tokyo, and we have the gorgeous pictures to remember that special trip. Like the beauty of the flowers that’s short and sweet, so was our vacation. And although worldly beauty is transient, the experience of such beauty creates memories we will carry in our hearts forever. I knew then that I would be planning a second trip to Japan. First time around, we were only in Tokyo, but this time, we added Kyoto and Osaka.
I feel that when you visit Tokyo, you get the best of modern Japan. In Kyoto, the best of traditional Japan. And we added Osaka, the food capital of Japan, for a change of pace. Sometimes when you had a great first trip you have high expectations and can be disappointed when returning to the same place for a second time. It just doesn’t live up to your memories. Even though we missed the peak season of cherry blossoms on our second trip to chase the “sakura front” going beyond Tokyo to Kyoto and then Osaka, Japan didn’t disappoint. It actually exceeded my expectations the second time around – the people, the culture, the temples and shrines, the food, the beautiful gardens, the scenic views, and the incredible walking trails. Speaking of hiking, we didn’t get to hike much when traveling with the kids. However, we were planning to do some days hikes on this trip. One thing I was hoping to avoid was any encounters with the venomous Mamushi. I am relieved to say there were no sightings of snakes slithering across any trails. But there were three things that stood out to me about Japan on this trip that I have been quite keen to share:
#1 Visual Appeal
If you are a neat freak like me, you’d love Japan where people seem to take pride in cleanliness and organization. I find it astonishing that in such densely populated metropolitan areas like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, it’s so rare to come across litter. It’s especially mystifying considering the near-absence of public trash bins. To the uninitiated tourist, like myself, it seems like the whole country is using the Marie Kondo Method. But it’s more than just sanitation and tidiness, everything in Japan is kawaii, cute. The phenomenal aesthetics and fanatic attention are being showcased in Japanese packaging. Presentation is everything. Everything is artfully done, even the cheap premade lunches are perfectly prepared and arranged.
#2 Culinary Delight
I am not a foodie by any stretch of the imagination. But I am obsessed with Japanese cuisine. For someone who is usually unenthused about food, I feel strongly that Japan has some of the best food on earth. Whether you go for a casual meal or decide to eat at the more expensive restaurants, you can count on the high quality and taste of the food. Sushi is my favorite food. I can honestly say that even the worst sushi I had in Japan was still so much better than the average sushi I get in either San Francisco, or Manhattan. It’s just that good. The level of care that goes into preparing the food in Japan is simply incredible. Even cheap and small fast food joints take immense pride in the food they prepare and serve. And I would certainly be remiss if I did not give an honorable mention to Japanese vending machines. You are never more than 10 feet away from one. They are everywhere, and you can get everything you want – alcohol, sandwiches, hardboiled eggs, candy, and much more.
#3 Personal Safety
The best way to describe safety in Japan, and the thing that impressed me the most, is that children as young as first graders can walk alone and take the subway to school by themselves. As a foreigner vising Japan, it’s very reassuring to know that Japan consistently ranks as one of the safest countries in the world. It’s nice to not worry about getting lost and wandering into unsafe areas. There are none. You can practically walk anywhere at any time, even late at night. It’s safe to the point that police don’t carry guns. They don’t need to. When I asked the locals about this, the most common answer was that Japan is safe and orderly because communal harmony is a core societal value. It is a collectivist culture where people are raised to look out for the greater good. The word “shitsuke” (discipline) was mentioned a lot. This might also explain why I have not seen any Japanese children misbehave out in public, or why no one was talking loudly on the phone on the trains, cafes, or any public places. Discipline and respect for others in also evident when taking the train. Train attendants and conductors bow to the passengers whenever they enter or exist a car. They do so even if everyone is sleeping, or the car is empty.
I am happy to report that after my second trip to Japan, I love Japan even more than before. I’ll definitely be back to venture beyond Japan’s tourist trails. Ans hopefully one day to complete one, or all, of the long-distance trails like the Nakasendo Way, Michinoku Coastal Trail, or the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
The Itinerary:
DAY 1 – Central Tokyo:
Afternoon/evening - Roppongi and Akasaka walking tour (5 miles). Roppongi is Tokyo's most vibrant and foreigner-friendly dining and nightlife district. The streets are packed with restaurants, bars and clubs (offering English menus) as well as shopping and cultural centers like Roppongi Hills and the Tokyo Midtown complex. Nearby Akasaka is an upscale area popular with politicians, businesspeople and wealthy expats. It's home to some good hotels and high-end restaurants.
DAY 2 – Northeast Tokyo
Northeast Tokyo Started at the Imperial palace area - connected to Ginza and then to Tsukiji (including a tour of the fish market before it moved to a new location) – took the subway to Ueno area - continued to Asakusa area
DAY 3 – Southwest Tokyo
Started at Aoyama & Harajuku - walked to Shinjuku– took subway to Shibuya and walking tour of the area.
DAY 4 – Kamakura Hike
Kamakura is a sleepy seaside town about an hour away from Tokyo by train. It is known for its many historical and cultural sights & the large number of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.
Hike the Daibutsu Trail, which connects the temple of Jochiji in the north with the famous Great Buddha in the west.
DAY 5 - Hakone
Hakone, in Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park west of Tokyo, is known for its hot springs and views of Mount Fuji. We followed the famous Hakone circle but walked along the lake (7.5 miles, mostly flat) instead of taking the boat back to Moto-Hakone.
https://www.env.go.jp/en/nature/nps/park/guide/hakone/recommend/03.html
DAY 6 – Train from Tokyo to Kyoto
Upon arrival in Kyoto (early afternoon) we visited the Kyoto botanical garden and walked back to the hotel through central Kyoto.
DAY 7 - Higashiyama Area
Hiked up to mount Inari to visit the temple on top of the mountain. Continued the day with a tour of Higashiyama, connecting by foot from Fushimi Inari to the Southern Higashiyama Walk & then the Northern Higashiyama Walk, including Philosopher's walk. This is one of the most interesting short walks around Kyoto.
https://www.insidekyoto.com/fushimi-inari-hike-kyoto)
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail/japan/kyoto/kyoto-philosophers-walk?u=i
DAY 8 - Kurama and Kibune
The hike from Kibune to Kurama, in the hills north of Kyoto, is a popular half-day trip out of Kyoto. It’s the perfect combination of nature and culture.
https://www.insidekyoto.com/kurama-to-kibune
https://www.alltrails.com/trail/japan/kyoto/kurama-trail?u=i
Ended the day in downtown Kyoto for a walking tour of some of the attractions in that area.
DAY 9 - Arashiyama
Walk A 4-hour walking tour among peaceful bamboo groves and elegant mountain temples.
In the afternoon we took the train to Osaka.
DAY 10 - Minoo Waterfall Hike
Minoo Park's main hiking trail extends about three kilometers through a valley alongside the Minoo River. The trail begins near Hankyu Minoo Station and leads to the Minoo Waterfall, the park's main natural attraction. The trail from the station to the waterfall is paved and should take most hikers about 45 minutes to walk (one way.) Part of the trail leading to Minoo Waterfall was damaged in a typhoon in 2017, and when we visited a temporary bypass was created while the original path was being restored.
Continued to Osaka castle: the castle is one of Japan's most famous landmarks and it played a major role in the unification of Japan during the sixteenth century
https://insideosaka.com/osaka-1-day-itinerary/
Farewell Osaka! Goodbye Japan.
