Day 21: León - Villavante
Today’s stats: 21 miles/700 ft elevation. Mind over Matter.
In his comment yesterday, my husband let the cat out of the bag. Yes, I have been sick fighting the stomach flu, or food poisoning. Needless to say, the last couple of days have been a real struggle.
At first, I thought I wouldn’t share this. Upon further reflection, I decided that if I share my Camino experience, I need to be honest. Not every day on the Camino is a good day, especially if you have diarrhea. Yes, I said it publicly. In the interest of transparency, despite a great reluctance to do so, I am sharing this embarrassing bodily matter - the good, the bad and the ugly.
So what do you do when you are sick with diarrhea on a long-distance trek? First, know that there’s no need to feel embarrassed like I did. It’s actually a very common affliction of backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts.
The obvious and wisest approach is to take a taxi to your next destination and have a rest day. But I am not wise. In fact, I am probably the most stubborn person you’ve ever met (thanks dad!) I also knew that my anxious husband wouldn’t send me off in a taxi on my own. And that we would be leaving our walking buddy all alone on a 21-mile walking day. I just couldn’t let my teammates down. So, I decided to make it a “one foot in front of the other” kind of a day.
If you are looking for practical tips: run like your house is on fire and shamelessly cut the line to either the men’s/women’s bathroom, whichever is vacant. You might find yourself in some dirty, smelly ones. Just do it! (and with no concern for those who are behind you - tough shit, no pan intended.) If you are less fortunate and cannot make it to a public bathroom - don’t overthink it, flash your bum and squat like a pro.
But enough about my ailments and a bit about today. We took the alternate Camino route, the Camino less traveled. We took the left turn towards Fresno del Camino. Instead of taking the path that runs parallel to the main road and passes through a few villages with services, we chose the route which runs through the tranquil countryside with hardly any people nor services. It runs through the moor and offers solitude and ancient beauty. We will merge back with the “official” route tomorrow morning.
Probably not the best choice for today, but we were committed to the albergue where, thankfully, we are booked for the night. Mercedes, the owner, took one look at me upon arrival (we finally limped in at 6pm, our longest day as far as both mileage and time), and she sat me down and brought me chamomile tea. When I couldn’t drag myself out of bed for dinner, she sent me a tray with tea and a dry cake. I am so grateful for the touching kindness of strangers.
Was it worth it? My esteemed Camino partners maintain that it was a poor decision. I am on the fence. Despite the challenges and pain, I am glad we got to power through day 21. The gift of the Camino is a deep acceptance of the moment, of what is vs. what should/could have been, and a sincere recognition that life offers everything that I need and only what I can handle.
Yes, when we finally got here, I was crying, and not tears of joy. But, hey, tomorrow is a new day, and thankfully a short day. Buen Camino!