Day 24: Foncebadon - Ponferrada
Today’s stats: 16.5 miles/900 ft elevation/3000 ft descent. The sign says “Keep Going!”
We made it to one of the Camino highlights - the Cruz de Ferro. Most people believe that the cross erected atop a five-meter wooden pole was built to mark the way for pilgrims who walked the Camino Frances in winter when everything is covered in a thick layer of snow. Many describe this spot as very spiritual. I am a cynic so expected to just hit the landmark and enjoy the spectacular views. However, the energy of others is contagious. I found the respectful peace of the place spiritually uplifting. Seeing others partake in the very old tradition of placing a rock and saying a prayer near the cross was very moving. According to the custom, if you bring a small rock from home and place it at the foot of the hill, you symbolically “leave your burdens behind.” In front of me in line to take a picture, Cristiana from Brazil had a handful of pebbles to leave behind. She said she was shedding a lifelong of burdens there. She was laughing and crying, and I found myself hugging her and getting teary-eyed sharing this emotional moment with her.
Although it says that the Cruz de Ferro is the highest point on the French Camino, we still had a bit of a climb before we started our decent to Ponferrada. Not an easy day, but one of the best ones on the Camino. The whole day was breathtakingly beautiful.
My inspiration today was Rose from South Africa who had to cut her Camino short and return home in 2013 due to health problems. She was diagnosed with Parkinson's disease. She is back this year, traveling solo, to complete her journey. She has a tag on her backpack saying: “I have Parkinson’s, but Parkinson’s doesn’t have me.” Her Camino wisdom is to try not to focus on the “what was” and live in the “what is” of life, the joys and blessings of what we have.
I was finally feeling better and could take a leisurely stroll around town. The Los Templarios Castle was definitely worth the extra mileage, and it’s free on Wednesdays. Buen Camino!