Today’s stats: 16 miles/1000 ft elevation. Under 200 km to Santiago.

Almost back to normal. Now that I am back to my regular hiking speed, I find that I like the slow lane better. It’s so much more interesting. A slower pace fosters a more intense awareness of my surroundings. And it is truly delightful to stop at every village and sample the local gastronomy along the way. But more cautiously from now on. This is what’s so unique about the Camino as a walking destination. Nightlife starts late with dinner served after 8pm. So why rush an experience of a lifetime?
 

We had an unexpectedly romantic lunch at a quaint winery in Cacabelos. I was still on the afflicted pilgrim’s diet of tea and toast, but my husband had a chicken dish fit for a king. All the dishes looked great on the plates and there were happy diners around us. Eating good food is one of life’s greatest joy.

We met two lovely sisters from the Pacific Northwest who jokingly said their motto for the Camino was to not say “no” to any opportunity to stamp their passport as a metaphor similar to Shonda Rhimes’ (Grey’s Anatomy) book The Year of Yes - saying “yes” to everything. On the Camino, they have decided they will say “yes”/ be open to every person, conversation, and opportunity to experience the journey fully. 

As an FYI, the passport identifies you as a pilgrim and provides proof that you have walked the required distance to gain your compostela (credential.) As we walk, we collect stamps along the way. When we get to the Pilgrims Office in Santiago, we shall receive ours.

We also walked a bit with a group of Australian women who strongly advised I add Australia to our hiking destinations despite my snake phobia. They say they have yet to encounter a snake on a hike. They claim that Tasmania is more beautiful than New Zealand. Can this be true???

Our whole day was spent walking through hills covered with cherry and fig trees, slopes dotted with chestnuts, and small farms. We ended our day at the Parador in Villafranca del Bierzo, a town of churches, monasteries, and interesting buildings. Our room offers beautiful views of El Bierzo. 
I was happy to finally eat dinner like a normal person after 5 days of a limited diet of bland food. I look forward to entering Galicia tomorrow. Buen Camino!