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Gila Gam

The Michinoku Coastal Trail: The Journey is The Destination

More than a decade ago, I got bitten by the hiking bug and decided to dedicate all my vacation time to hike epic long-distance treks around the world. I recently completed a section of the Michinoku Coastal Trail (MCT), Japan's newest hiking trail in the northeastern Tohoku region. I hiked over 160 miles in 11 days from the trailhead in Soma to the Koyo High School Memorial Museum in Kesennuma. Walking the trail, which was the scene of massive devastation, was a powerful experience. One cannot walk it without thinking about the Great East Japan Earthquake of March 11, 2011, in which over 1,000 km of the coastline were submerged by the tsunami wiping away communities and killing close to 20,000 people. But walking the trail is witnessing human resilience. The MCT is a symbol of remembrance and renewal. Writing is my way of trying to process all that I’ve experienced by putting thoughts and feelings into words, with the hope that others will also find it useful and gain some insights for life and work.

I am often asked “why trekking?” For me, hiking long-distances is basically taking a “time out” from my carefully constructed (and predictable) world. It is an opportunity to be free to go with the flow, to connect to nature and people, and to have a lot of time to think. When I travel and out on the trail, I get to expand my world, broaden my reality, and gain perspective.


It goes without saying that being in a different culture opens a window to other ways of life. The powerful thig is that the juxtaposition provides an opportunity to examine my own values, beliefs, habits, and judgments. I feel I am given a new lens to see my life when I see how other people live. There is great value in being out of my comfort zone and figuring things out when facing unforeseen and uncomfortable situations. What I have learned is that it’s not the destination that matters, but the journey, all the experiences I get to accumulate along the way. Although, on a point-to-point trail, you are always walking from one overnight accommodation to the next, by walking you learn that it’s not about racing toward the next goal post but rather about taking the time to appreciate the journey – the highs, the lows, the good times, and the challenges. It is the in-between moments that are worth treasuring.


Travel gives me my most cherished memories and valuable lessons to pay forward to others. The 3 most impactful takeaways from my trip:


#1 The Power of Community Resilience


I’ve read a lot and written quite a few blogs about the importance of building resilience in order to cope effectively and bounce back after challenges, setbacks, disappointments, and failures. On this trip, I have witnessed the power of community resilience, the ability of a community to recover from a natural disaster of unimaginable magnitude – the strongest earthquake in Japan’s recorded history unleashing a savage tsunami that completely devastated the coastal areas. It is said that resilience is strengthened when it is shared. Within a few days, Japan embarked on the journey to reconstruction and recovery. Time and time again, people shared that despite the unbearable shock and sorrow, they made a promise to do whatever it takes to rebuild and persevere. Every person I met over the age of 12 is a survivor, and many have the spirit of “ganbaru” (to endure.)


I will always carry the story of Onagawa in my heart. Onagawa was hit harder than any other municipality. The tsunami, funneled towards the shore by the surrounding Bay, was 14 meters high when it enveloped the town. Close to 10% of the population was lost and over 80% of the buildings were destroyed. The people of Onagawa came together to rebuild their town from the ground up, building not only the town but a new future.


Personal takeaway: whereas I have always worked hard to cultivate and grow resilience, it’s always been with a small circle of family and friends. I recognize the need to put more effort in nurturing larger circles as well. As a first step, make sure I know all my neighbors by name.


#2 The Gift of Compassion and Kindness


I believe that resilience is based on compassion for ourselves and others. Countless times, I have been on the receiving end of random acts of kindness. This is what I cherish the most, the special interactions with the locals and the kindness of strangers. On long-distance treks, you never know when, where or from whom gracious help may arrive. I was lucky to have experienced some Trail Magic every day. Trail Magic usually refers to food and drinks offered by strangers. But sometimes, it’s just as much about the kind intentions. The people of the Tōhoku region showered me with love and kindness; from cookies, to cold drinks, offers to help, and invitations to visit their home. It is not an exaggeration to say that almost everyone was going out of their way to be helpful. I am left with an overwhelming feeling of gratitude for the kindness, thoughtfulness, and consideration that was such an integral part of my Japan experience.


My most memorable encounter (that I feel could happen only in Japan) was stopping to put on rain gear. A woman watching from the window ran out of her home offering plastic bags and duct tape to cover the backpacks. When shown the rain cover, she went back home and came back a second time offering an umbrella. After a lively conversation via hand gestures and Google translate, she understood the rain gear was sufficient with no need for an umbrella. She then offered her home as a shelter from the rain.


Personal takeaway: I am grateful for every person showing me kindness and compassion, even if only an encouraging smile. When out on the trail, there was no such thing as a small act of kindness. The smallest gesture made a huge difference. As uncomfortable as it is for me to ask for and receive help, I’ve learned to graciously take people up on their generosity. I know I need to pay it forward on and off the trail. I believe that within my personal and professional circles, I am considered being kind. I recognize the need to extend kindness and generosity beyond just those whom I know. As a first step, pay more attention to my surrounding and the people around me to spot those in need.


#3 The spirit of consideration and courtesy


While kindness is important, the Japanese take it to whole other level having courtesy and consideration at the forefront of their mind in everything they do. They really do push the envelope of generosity of spirit. It is a culture where people focus on the community rather than the self, recognizing that one’s actions affect the whole. It is very obvious that in Japan, people take pride in taking loving care of their surroundings. It seems like a miracle that in busy and crowded areas the streets are clean; graffiti is rare, and people seldom throw trash on the ground. Every toilet I visited in Japan was spotlessly clean.

It is very common to see people pick up trash left around by others making it their business to keep the communal space clean. It was impressive to witness this hiking Mt Takao. The entire mountain is free of garbage. There are no trash cans, and people are required to take their garbage home. But with hundreds of hikers, some people unintentionally litter when garbage accidently falls on the ground, or left behind. When it happens, there are plenty good Samaritan who’d clean up the mess others made.


Personal takeaway: from a young age, the “golden rule” was instilled in me: “treat others as you want to be treated.” I try to live my life by this value and extend consideration, courtesy, compassion, and caring to others. However, there is definitely room for improvement when it comes to taking responsibility for communal spaces. I am still trying to figure out what going the extra mile looks like. Perhaps it is picking up trash, signing up for Clean Community Days – still TBD.


I came back 10 days ago, and I am still processing my thoughts and feelings. But there is this overarching feeling of awe and gratitude. It is a big wide wonderful world, and traveling is a beautiful gift. Wherever you are in your journey, I hope you keep finding your own unique ways to get inspired.





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